Icelandic Mountain Guides
Volcanic Trails 2: The Wilderness of Strútur Trail
The Wilderness of Strútur Trail takes us to the south side of the very colorful Torfajökull rhyolite massif where the colors yellow, orange, red, and even blue-green make a refreshing contrast to the black sands and bright green mountains. The trail continues to Álftavatn lakes, passing Strútur mountain into the black desert Mælifellssandur, dominated by the vast glacier of Mýrdalsjökull. The trek ends at Hvanngil hut, and after a morning walk the next day, those who finish here get on a bus that takes them back to Reykjavík.
We bathe in the Strútslaug natural pool, enjoy crystal clear waterfalls, cross rivers on a natural stone bridge, and revel in the silence of the highlands. This is by far one of the most dramatic parts of the Fjallabak area where you will feel the vastness of the land as well as the immense solitude. There are but few who venture into this area.
Day 1: Reykjavík - Landmannalaugar - Eldgjá - Hólaskjól
Meeting point at 7:15 at BSÍ bus terminal in Reykjavík. Today you leave on the morning bus to Landmannalaugar. On arrival in this magnificent rhyolite area, you have a chance to dip into the natural pool on the premises or simply admire the beauty of this astounding place during the 2.5-hour stop. You get onto the bus leaving Landmannalaugar in the afternoon for Skaftafell, getting off at Hólaskjól after approximately a 3-hour drive with a stop at the canyon Eldgjá. At Hólaskjól, you meet the guide and join the ongoing Volcanic Trails trek. Night in a comfortable hut, WC, and showers available.
Day 2: Hólaskjól - Álftavötn
After breakfast, we set out for the trek to the lakes of Álftavötn. We follow the river Syðri Ófæra that drains from the glacier Torfajökull through rolling green hills. Torfajökull is not only a glacier but one of the bigger geothermal areas in Iceland. Depending on the weather, the river can be high or low, but we will most certainly be able to cross it over to the lakes Álftavötn on a natural bridge. There is a traditional hut close to the lakes where we spend the night. The tranquility of this magical place is amazing, and this is really a great spot to recharge. Rustic hut, outhouse, no showers.
Distance: 7-10 km (4-6 mi)
Ascent/descent: 150 m
Walking time: 5-6 hrs
Day 3: Álftavötn - Strútur
Today we continue along the river Syðri Ófæra, crossing once again the Canyon of Fire, Eldgjá, and can wonder at the immensity of the natural forces at play when it was created. The landscape changes from green meadows to black sands with screaming green streaks of moss that almost blow our minds. After rounding the massif of Svartahnjúksfjöll, we come to the river Hólmsá and its lagoon. We need to cross the river, and even though it may feel cold, we can warm ourselves in the natural pool Strútslaug on the other side. After a relaxing soak in the pool, we conclude the day’s march walking to the hut at Strútur where we spend the night. Comfortable hut, WC, and showers available.
Distance: 24 km (15 mi)
Ascent/descent: 300 m
Walking time: 7-8 hrs
Day 4: Strútur - Hvanngil
Leaving the comfortable hut, we set out for the day’s trek along the Mýrdalssandur, the black volcanic sand plain, hemmed in by the icecap of Mýrdalsjökull glacier to the south and the Torfajökull rhyolite massif to the north. We need to cross some of the rivers and better have our river crossing shoes ready. The mystical palagonite landscape of Hvanngil valley greets us, and we are yet amazed at the wonders of the Icelandic landscape. At the mouth of the valley, a hut awaits for the night. Comfortable hut, WC, and showers available.
Distance: 14-18 km (9-11 mi)
Ascent/descent: 150 m
Walking time: 5-6 hrs
Day 5: Hvanngil (Álftavatn) – Reykjavík
After breakfast, we pack our things and get ready for the day’s hike exploring the side trails of the Laugavegur hiking trail. We proceed along the river Kaldaklofskvísl, admiring the eerie green Stórasúla mountain on the other side, which summit only the birds seem able to visit. The river winds along, and soon we climb the small pass of Brattháls from where we can enjoy the views to lake Álftavatn (“Swan lake”) before continuing to the huts on the northern shore of the lake. Here we get onto the bus for Reykjavík, taking leave of our guide and the hikers continuing on the Volcanic Trails for the last section. Arrival in Reykjavík at 19:35 where the tour ends at the Reykjavík Bus Terminal.
Distance: 5-6 km (3-4 mi)
Ascent/descent: 300 m
Walking time: 3-4 hrs
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